2.24.2010

Saba, the Unspoiled Queen







If you have not been to Saba, the island known as the "unspoiled queen," it it something to appreciate and see, and an island so different than surrounding Nevis, Anguilla, St Barths, and Sint Maarten. The only issue is actually getting there......there are two options, or should I include, two safe options. You can take the ferry which is approximately two hours on what most refer to as the "vomit comet" or you can take a ten minute "white knuckle" flight which is something to be remembered. Lastly, you can go via private boat which is not the safest option considering it is a very rocky, mountainous island not truly accessible by boat.



You can probably guess as to how I decided to get there. The runway is the shortest I've experienced, with Florence's (Italy) a close second, and so weather is a huge variable as to the outcome of the experience.
Not only is the runway short short short, but the angle at which the pilot (Note: singular, ONE pilot) hits the runway is the most interesting flying experience.
If you are sitting on the right side of the aircraft, you'll see a cliff; on the left side, the water; and, those bravest to watch the runway can experience the thrilling rush of anticipation, contemplating the ability of the aircraft brakes, or the possibility of edging the cliff and pulling wheels back to pull back up....or lastly, to take a dive in the water. I was in a pool of sweat upon landing, and although a short flight, I can say one of the most engaging and thrilling!

The island's personality is nothing of its' neighbors and has this humility which is far different than glitzy St Barths or expensive Nevis. It is owned by the Dutch Antilles, and the people, primarily Dutch with a few French expats, plant their own gardens, renovate their own homes, and have an honest liking to tourists.

A few things about this island that really make it interesting:
There is no true water system, so water is frugally used and provided by a reservoir system. If the island is lacking in rain, bathing may be a bit tricky. The restaurants are what I most definitely did not expect, and are quite the culinary dream! The Gatehouse is my favorite run by a local couple who retired in Saba years ago and pretty much do "this" for fun. You absolutely need reservations as this is their home and they not only have the best and most appreciated wine list from Wine Spectator, but a quaint little table on their upstairs patio to oversee Saba.
Lastly, this is a "hiking" island, not a beach island.....yes, I went all prepared with swimsuit and flip-flops, but you're better off either renting a car or hoofing it with a good solid pair of tennis or hiking shoes.



The view posted here is the view off the eternity spa from the room, and the sunset amidst the rocky landscape is one of the most beautiful I've seen. Some think that the Queen's Garden Hotel where we stayed is rigged with music, but no, it is purely the sensational chorus at night of the tree frogs and birds on the mountain. Saba is genuinely beautiful and truly, the interesting, unspoiled queen.

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